Fashion On-Demand: A Conversation With Variloom

In the fashion industry, 92 million tons of textile waste are produced every year. For Bethany Meuleners, Apparel and Textile Design & Development Lead at Variloom, this isn't just a problem to be managed—it’s an industry ripe for reinvention.

In a recent interview with Sourcing Journal, Bethany shared how Variloom, a Moon Creative Lab venture, is utilizing 3D printing and biobased materials to unlock a faster, cleaner, and more responsive future for fashion.

Innovation Beyond the Label

One of the biggest misconceptions in the industry is that a "sustainable material" label makes a product responsible. “In reality, true sustainability goes far beyond the material itself. It begins at the design stage, by considering durability, understanding consumer needs so the product is genuinely valued and used, and making intentional choices about where and how it is produced. It continues throughout the supply chain, from manufacturing and distribution to how the product reaches the consumer, and ultimately, how it is handled at the end of its life,” Bethany explains.

Variloom’s approach centers on an on-demand 3D printing system. By producing customizable soft goods on-demand and on-site, brands can design and manufacture fabrics in days rather than months, and with a lot less waste. Reducing the need for inventory and bringing manufacturing closer to the consumer, Variloom’s process minimizes reliance on offshore manufacturing.

Closing the Loop

In addition to its printing system, another facet of Variloom is its patent-pending soft, recyclable material. Developed using biobased thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) and a proprietary blend of responsibly sourced natural additives and fibers, the material offers the stretch and performance consumers expect, but in a more sustainable, circular way. At a product’s end-of-life, the material can be recycled up to three times without losing its integrity.

“A large share of waste happens on the consumer side.” 

“A large share of waste happens on the consumer side, often because people do not know what to do with a product at the end of its life. There is an opportunity to design products and create systems that make end-of-life solutions approachable and accessible for consumers.”

A Personal Commitment to Purpose

For Bethany, the philosophy of sustainability extends beyond the lab. Her own personal approach to clothing involves buying less, choosing quality staples, and caring for her clothing.

“I have a very loved denim shirt that after several years, has now become my all-purpose yard work, crafting, and anything-messy shirt,” she shares. "How you care for your clothing is just as important to sustainability as what you purchase.” 

“Sustainability doesn’t have to come at the expense of 

great design.”

The Path Forward

While sustainability is the core of Variloom’s mission, that doesn’t mean design comes secondary. As Bethany mentioned, it is all intertwined from the very beginning. From its 3D printing system to the patented soft material to a product’s end-of-life, Variloom has created a fully circular way of manufacturing textiles, all while keeping great fashion design at the forefront. “Sustainability doesn’t have to come at the expense of great design. With the flexibility of the Variloom technology, we aim to expand the possibilities for bespoke design while giving both designers and customers more freedom and customization. For us, sustainability and good design go hand in hand.” 

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